Great Northern Adventure    Don Bragg
   Jun 06, 2005 05:25 PDT 
ENTS--

I have recently returned from a fantastic adventure to northern Minnesota, Michigan, and Wisconsin. My family and I visited a number of old pine-dominated stands, and I took my trusty Impulse 200LR and diameter tape along. This trip was part work (I was collecting red and white pine heights for a paper I'm working on) and part pleasure (visit family and run through some big trees).

We drove from our house in Arkansas northwards in mid-May. En route, we made a quick stop in Big Oak Tree State Park in the boot heel of Missouri not far east of New Madrid. This would be a great place for the July get-together, if we're still planning on doing it!! I only had enough time to stroll along a boardwalk (being repaired) down one trail (probably less than a mile total). This trail boasts some very large bur oak, cottonwood, pumpkin ash, and a number of other hardwoods. Looks like a target-rich environment!

From this point, we ventured to northern Wisconsin to visit with my folks for a few days. While there, I shot some heights on trees from the place I grew up at. My parents' property is approximately 40 acres (half conifer swamp, half mixed conifer-hardwood upland) in the glaciated terrain so common to the northern Lake States. Most of the property is glacial till with a high sand and stone content (some erratics are the size of small cars), with areas of impeded drainage and high water tables. Soils are primarily spodosols, with some histosols in the low, wet areas, and these soils tend to be relatively low in nutrients and fairly acid. Of the 40 acres, approximately one-quarter is in a mature (~100 yr old) stand of red (primarily) and white pine. We have thinned the stand several times over the years, but its diameter distribution still reflects a history of a stand of natural origin that thinned itself. The largest diameter pines are found scattered around the hardwood-dominated uplands. Most hardwoods are relatively small red maple, aspen (bigtooth and quaking), paper birch, and a few northern red oak, while the conifer swamps are dominated by balsam fir, black spruce, northern whitecedar, and tamarack.

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 27.1    7.1 88.8   PINSTR = eastern white pine
PICGLA 16.9    4.4 78.8   PICGLA = white spruce
PINSTR 28.0    7.3 85.3
PINSTR 26.2    6.9 99.6
PINRES 25.6    6.7 82.9   PINRES = red pine
PINSTR 24.5    6.4 96.5
PINRES 12.7    3.3 86.0
PINRES 14.3    3.7 95.2
PINRES 16.8    4.4 92.1
PINSTR 15.0    3.9 95.5
PINSTR 16.6    4.3 99.2
PINSTR 25.8    6.8 99.6
PINSTR 20.0    5.2 93.7
PINSTR 22.2    5.8 97.6
PINSTR 16.4    4.3 91.8
PINSTR 19.5    5.1 91.2
PINRES 16.3    4.3 93.1
PINRES 21.2    5.6 92.9

I would guess than a few of the pines probably do exceed 100 feet, or soon will, as they all have vigorous leaders. The white spruce is also doing well. 

While in Rhinelander, I also visited a Nature Conservancy property called "Holmboe Woods (WI)" (http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/er/sna/sna79.htm) located on the banks of the Pelican River just across from the city's sewage treatment plant (not as unpleasant as you may expect...). This hemlock-dominated stand is not far from downtown, and contains a few remnant old hemlocks (200+ yrs) amongst a bunch of hemlock, white pine, and red pine ~125 years old. This area, given its proximity to a major historical logging and lumbering center, was probably cut (high-graded, I would guess) and partially burnt over in the late 1870s-early 1880s. Holmboe Woods is an area of steep moraines of fairly good but acidic soil, with abundant tip-up mounds (probably due to a fragipan in the soil). Most of the overstory is a dense stand of eastern hemlock 70-80 feet tall, making it difficult to shoot heights on the supercanopy pines. There are also a couple of depressions (either old river channels or kettles in the moraine) that hold wetland species like tamarack, black spruce, northern whitecedar, and black ash. I didn't have a lot of time this afternoon, so I went through this stand quickly, and undoubtedly missed many big trees.

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 26.8    7.0 95.8
PINRES 20.6    5.4 91.6
PINRES 22.8    6.0 73.5
TSUCAN 26.7    7.0 75.5   TSUCAN = eastern hemlock
PRUPEN 4.9 1.3 51.9   PRUPEN = pin cherry
PINSTR 27.7    7.3 102.9
PINRES 19.9    5.2 98.5
PINSTR 27.8    7.3 105.1
TSUCAN 26.2    6.9 93.1
TSUCAN 29.3    7.7 91.2
LARLAR 13.5    3.5 68.4   LARLAR = tamarack
PINSTR 26.2    6.9 99.2
PINSTR 18.9    4.9 94.9
PINSTR 20.2    5.3 93.8
PINSTR 28.5    7.5 94.7

The biggest pines are between 100 and 110 feet, and the hemlock may also push 100 feet as well. Most other species probably do not exceed 70 or 80 feet in Holmboe Woods, although there may be a scattered sugar maple or yellow birch mixed in with the hemlock that would. The pin cherry is about as big as this short-lived species gets in this area.

After a couple days in Rhinelander, we drove to northern Minnesota so I could spend some time working with the Forest Service silviculture unit in Grand Rapids, and also took the opportunity to measure some more big pines. Our first adventure took us about an hour northwest of Grand Rapids on the Chippewa National Forest to a small natural area called the "Lost Forty (MN)" (http://www.fs.fed.us/r9/chippewa/camp/sitemaps/lostforty.pdf). This parcel was apparently mistakenly plotted as a lake by the GLO land surveyors, and therefore escaped the big logging efforts of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The overstory is dominated by old-growth red and white pine up to 350 years old, with a mixture of second-growth hardwoods and other conifers. What a stand!! I spent an afternoon tallying big trees, and still missed most of them!! They have a nice interpretative trail that goes through only a portion of the stand, and I would guess that there are hundreds of big pines out here. Unlike my parents property, this is on a somewhat better morainal site, with understory vegetative evidence that this stand would probably become a northern hardwood forest, barring further disturbance. Currently, there are only a few small sugar maples, but their importance is growing in the understory. A dense understory of beaked hazel (some 12 to 15 feet tall!) covers most of the stand, with large numbers of mountain maple, red maple, balsam fir, and sugar maple filling in the midstory. The overstory is relatively open in parts of the forests, with some closed-canopy older red pine-dominated stands in portions. White and red pines form a towering supercanopy over the other hardwoods and conifers.

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 36.7     9.6    125.6
PINSTR 32.4     8.5    127.7
PINSTR 42.6    11.2     99.1
PINRES 32.8     8.6    107.9
PINSTR 29.9     7.8     91.7
PINSTR 26.5     6.9    106.6
PINSTR 26.0     6.8     96.5
PINRES 30.8     8.1     96.9
PINRES 24.9     6.5     91.6
PICGLA 17.4     4.6     94.0
PINRES 32.9     8.6    111.9
PINRES 33.8     8.8    108.4
PINRES 36.0     9.4    104.0
POPTRE 19.4     5.1     88.0   POPTRE = quaking aspen
PICGLA 24.3     6.4    103.3
ABIBAL 12.0     3.1     80.7   ABIBAL = balsam fir
PINSTR 41.5    10.9    131.9
PINSTR 41.5    10.9    124.9
PINSTR 44.1    11.5    122.8
POPGRA 24.5     6.4     93.5   POPGRA = bigtooth aspen

6 species Rucker Index (RI6) = 131.9 + 111.9 + 103.3 + 88.0 + 80.7 + 93.5 = 101.6

My work schedule did not permit me to really pursue a 10 species RI, and it may not have been possible at this relatively species-poor site, but this first iteration is at least a start. For this part of the world, the white and red pine were IMPRESSIVE, with capital I-M-P-R-E-S-S-I-V-E!! I only wish I had remembered my digital camera! I don't know if I've every seen a 36" DBH red pine, and the 40+ inch DBH white pines were pretty common. I suspect I could find bigtooth aspen even taller than 93.5 feet (this was the only one I measured, and there were other big ones around). I think it would also be possible to find quaking aspen, white spruce, and maybe even balsam fir > 90 feet tall in this stand. I'm definitely coming back once I get the chance!

The next day, I then drove an hour west of Grand Rapids to the Pike Bay Experimental Forest (MI). This experimental forest, located on the east side of Pike Bay, is a good quality northern hardwood site that has several extensive areas of white pine (with scattered red pine). In the 1930s and 1950s, the Forest Service implemented some thinning and release studies in these pine forests, which are now approximately 125 years old. The thinning treatments have encouraged good diameter growth on the pines, with many exceeding 30 inches DBH.

pikebay.jpg (70862 bytes)

White Pine Thinning, Pike Bay Experimental Forest

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 22.9    6.0 106.0
PINSTR 27.4    7.2 100.5
PINSTR 32.6    8.5 108.6
PINSTR 26.5    6.9 120.9
PINSTR 25.8    6.8 117.3
PINSTR 31.4    8.2 106.0
PINRES 26.6    7.0 92.1
PINSTR 31.4    8.2 114.3
PINSTR 30.5    8.0 115.0
PINSTR 31.1    8.1 112.2
PINSTR 23.7    6.2 97.5
PINSTR 29.8    7.8 116.8
PINSTR 35.8    9.4 120.2
PINRES 25.6    6.7 97.5
PINSTR 25.4    6.6 104.8
PINSTR 28.2    7.4 102.7
PINRES 18.5    4.8 85.6

The thinning/release treatments have largely removed any non-pine species, but the stands are open and quite impressive to walk through. These stands still receive thinning treatments, and should be around for quite a while.

On our return trip to Wisconsin, we took a slight detour into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and traveled up to the Black River Harbor (MI). This area is a part of the Ottawa National Forest, and is designated as a scenic recreation area. The Black River cascades over a series of waterfalls before finally placidly running into Lake Superior. Most of the timber along the river as it flows into the harbor is uncut old-growth, although this is only a relatively narrow swath. About a mile from the lake, white pine seems to disappear from the canopy, and I suspect this area (and further upstream) had the scattered pines logged during the big cut. The wind-swept hills along the river contain many old (200 to 400 year) white pine and hemlock, with scattered sugar maple and yellow birch. Trees close to Lake Superior are relatively stunted, and the trees get progressively taller as one travels up the river trail. There are many scenic views of the river and the forests along its banks as one travels upstream. The white pine in particular tower above the dense hemlock canopy, which is probably only about 60 to 80 feet tall, on average.

black_river_pines1a.jpg (45480 bytes)

 

Black River Harbor, MI pines

black_river_pines2a.jpg (69663 bytes)

 

black_river_pines3b.jpg (99225 bytes)

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 36.7     9.6    104.5
PINSTR 26.9     7.0    104.8
PINSTR 43.8    11.5    112.5
PINSTR 35.7     9.3    115.9
PINSTR 29.3     7.7     98.2
PINSTR 37.9     9.9    104.2
PINSTR 44.4    11.6    131.6
PINSTR   -- -- 113.1
PINSTR 36.0     9.4    135.3
PINSTR 40.8    10.7    117.4
PINSTR 40.7    10.7    125.2
PINSTR 33.7     8.8    122.6
PINSTR 34.4     9.0    113.0
TSUCAN 32.0     8.4     87.0

I am sure there are taller and bigger trees than these in this area--I only walked up one side of the river, and didn't venture down the steep banks. There are literally hundreds of supercanopy white pine in this area, and thousands of old-growth examples of hemlock, maple, birch, basswood, and other species in the general area. The white pine with missing diameter data was shot from across the river, and probably exceeded 3 feet in DBH. The Black River is just down the lakeshore from the Porcupine Mountains, and if I may be so bold as to propose a future meeting area for an ENTS rendezvous, it could be somewhere in the vicinity of the western Upper Peninsula!! Between the Black River, Porkies, Sylvania, McCormick Tract, Estivant Pines, and numerous other places, there are thousands of acres of intact old-growth in this part of the world!

We then returned to Rhinelander for a few more days. On one day, my brother Bob and I ventured to a couple more pine stands in northern Wisconsin. The first was located right along US highway 8 (WI) between Crandon and Laona on the edge of the Nicolet National Forest. This stand consists of a few dozen old-growth red and white pines on the east shore of a lake and the surrounding northern-hardwood dominated hills. The trees appear to be on Connor Lumber Company land, so I'm not sure of their protected status (indeed, there are numerous old pine stumps, and obvious logging evidence in adjacent hardwood stands, but no recent cutting of the big pines). Once again, these pines tower above the surrounding hardwood and hemlock forests, and are classic examples of the role of white pine in the northern hardwood landscape. Some of these white pines were impressively large, exceeding 40 inches DBH with boles clear of limbs for 70 to 80 feet.

hwy8_pines1a.jpg (30135 bytes)

Highway 8, WI pines

hwy8_pines2a.jpg (69940 bytes) hwy8_pines3a.jpg (80138 bytes)

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 32.7     8.6    130.7
PINSTR 29.7     7.8    113.3
PINSTR 25.9     6.8    101.6
PINSTR 31.1     8.1    100.5
PINSTR 40.0    10.5     99.5
PINSTR 39.9    10.4    104.6
PINSTR 29.3     7.7    107.9
PINSTR 29.0     7.6    110.0
PINRES 21.6     5.7    105.7
PINSTR 30.0     7.9    104.3
PINSTR 37.2     9.7    116.1
PINSTR 36.5     9.6    116.0
PINSTR 36.8     9.6    133.2
PINSTR 44.3    11.6    131.7
PINSTR 37.5     9.8    118.6
PINSTR 40.9    10.7    110.2

 


A combination of a good site with high nutrients and ample moisture makes me think that these pines are not as old as those along the Black River or at the Lost Forty, and I think they have some potential to add more height.

Our final stop was at a remnant old-growth stand called the "Cathedral of the Pines (WI)" on the Nicolet National Forest near Lakewood, WI. This virgin forest is primarily hemlock dominated, with many supercanopy white and red pines. Non-conifer overstory species include American beech, sugar maple, aspen, and birch. The most unique attribute of this stand (beyond the big pines) is the blue heron rookery found in many of the supercanopy individuals. My brother and I were there during the nesting period, and the sound was incredible! Unfortunately, this stand is starting to experience some significant pine mortality, some from windthrow, some from lightning, and the rest from beetles and/or disease. On average, the trees are not as big in diameter as the previous site or the Lost Forty, but they are tall:

cathedral_pines1a.jpg (92182 bytes) cathedral_pines2a.jpg (66001 bytes) cathedral_pines3a.jpg (65196 bytes)

Cathedral Pines, WI

    DBH CBH sinHT
Species (in.)   (ft)    (ft)
PINSTR 35.0    9.2 134.7
PINSTR 33.7    8.8 119.0
PINSTR 20.9    5.5 119.8
PINSTR 32.1    8.4 133.0
PINRES 21.2    5.6 116.5
PINSTR 28.7    7.5 120.4
PINRES 23.4    6.1 108.1
PINSTR 34.5    9.0 127.3
PINRES 19.2    5.0 120.4
PINSTR 30.9    8.1 119.6
PINSTR 30.3    7.9 126.1
PINRES 20.6    5.4 109.2

The dense canopy made it difficult to get the heights of most pines and hemlocks.

I will send Ed some pictures from this trip to post on the website. Sorry for the length of this posting, but as you can see, it was productive both for my research as well as the ENTS!

Don Bragg

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Don C. Bragg, Ph.D.
Research Forester
USDA Forest Service
Southern Research Station

RE: Great Northern Adventure   Robert Leverett
  Jun 06, 2005 07:18 PDT 

Don:

   Thanks for the excellent report. Wow, were you productive. The
numbers for the white pines that you report are consistent with what
I've seen on my few trips through the area. However, there are some
spots in Wisconsin that are truly extraordinary. I'm sure you are aware
of the fine managed forest on the Menominee Reservation in Wisconsin.
Lee Frelich has reported on the Menominee a number of times. Have you
seen it?

Bob
RE: Great Northern Adventure   Don Bragg
  Jun 06, 2005 12:56 PDT 

I have passed through the Menominee Reservation multiple times, but I have never stopped to measure tree heights. I briefly considered using some tribal lands there as a part of my MS work on birds eye maple, but at the time the requirements for a non-tribal member to work on the land were more than I had time to deal with. I've always loved driving through that area, as it sticks out dramatically from the surrounding agricultural countryside. The Wolf River is beautiful as it course through the reservation, tumbling over rapids and waterfalls, and the timber is spectacular. I have also been impressed with the abundant hemlock, white cedar, and Canada yew regeneration in many areas, which most attribute to the low deer densities in that area.

While I would consider most of the pine stands I looked on this trip typical for the historical virgin forest of the area, they did not include stands from the most fertile sites, nor were they at the upper end of the diameter distribution. I have little doubt that the reports of 200+ foot white pines in presettlement days in parts of Michigan and Wisconsin were true, although these individuals may be all gone by now. I'm going to try to add to this tally in any future trips up north, and hit some spots with a broader species spectrum in mind. I hope to get some stands in the lower peninsula of Michigan (including Hartwick Pines and Colonial Point) in a couple weeks, and will report on them as soon as I can.

Don Bragg
RE: Great Northern Adventure   Robert Leverett
  Jun 06, 2005 13:46 PDT 

Don:

   In the past, maximum dimensions of Pinus strobus occupied much space
in our e-mail communications. So far as I am aware, Will Blozan and I
have measured the only legitimate 200-footer in the eastern U.S.A. The
Paul Thompson submissions were gross mismeasurements.

   The ENTS quest for pines in the 200-foot class is becoming legendary.
So is our research of the great trees of the past. I too believe that at
least some stands had an occasional 200-footer in various parts of the
Mid-west and Northeast. The same would be true of the Southern
Appalachians. However, some of the accounts that we have collected over
the years almost assuredly are exaggerations either intentional or
otherwise. For instance, a great white pine at Lancaster, NH has been
listed at 264 feet in historical accounts. I consider the possibility of
a pine of that stature remote. I think Will considers it a virtual
impossibility.
   As you know, much of what we want to accomplish in ENTS is to bring
truth into the big tree numbers. We are now making loads of progress and
the continuance of our success will be in no small part due to the
efforts of highly educated foresters and forest ecologists, scientists
from other disciplines, mathematicians, arborists, landscape architects,
etc. all with a passion for tree measuring and a dedication to achieving
the highest level of accuracy that our equipment will allow.

   Will Blozan and I extensively measured the Hartwick Pines. We got
them up to 157 and that was back in the year 2000, if I recall the date
correctly.

Bob