Catskill Weekend, NY Bob Leverett
July 26, 2009

ENTS,

On Saturday, Monica and I returned to New York's dreamy Catskill country. Our mission was three-fold. For exercise and tree hunting, we planned to take a hike along the escarpment trail. Later, we would attend a classical concert in Hunter, and then visit a piano museum being established by Vladimir Pleshakov and Elena Winther. All three missions were successful. We're making plans for a return to Hunter in August.
The escarpment is the impressive eastern side of the Catskills. The escarpment defines what mountains are supposed to look like in the southern New York. A bold ridge line rising high above the Hudson country just a few miles distant. 
We took my customary path Route 23a into the Catskills. From along the Catskill crest in the vicinity of Route 23 and 23a, views to the east and south inspired a generation of gentle Hudson River School of impressionistic artists. They captured on canvas the very spirit of the Catskill country, a spirit that can still be sensed today's from the high ledges along the escarpment.  
Although all but two of their high summits are under 4,000 feet altitude, t he Catskills are big eastern mountains.  Their vertical relief is very impressive. Kaaterskill High Peak (3,655 ft) rises a full 3,000 feet above the Helderbergs to the east and 2,500 feet above its immediate base. In some places, the rise is as much as 2,800 feet. That is a real elevation gain. The views of and from the escarpment are comparable to the best seen in the Virginia, North Carolina, and Georgia Blue Ridge. 
If there is a negative to the area we hiked in on Saturday, it is that t he forest in the vicinity of the escarpment is often composed of undistinguished re-growth from old fields and formerly high graded wood-lots. The Catskills do not absorb logging operations well. Soils are thin and when destroyed, they are gone for a long, long time. So some published hiking guide descriptions to the contrary, there isn't much to look at in the Tannersville region adjacent to the escarpment. However, once along the escarpment, the picture changes dramatically, and I do mean dramatically. The Catskill magic asserts itself. Rip Van Winkle awakens. 
The escarpment forests see a lot of disturbance: drought, snow and ice storms, spot fires, etc., but on the whole, they provide a natural and interesting setting. Along the escarpment, chestnut oak signals the dryness of the ledge environment. But many other species are encountered. I noticed serviceberry scattered around. Medium-sized hemlocks (and an occasional large one) are also present to tempt the big tree aficionado. I judge ages of some of the hemlocks to be 175 years and older, but not much older.

In the attached images, the first shot is a prelude. It is of a natural area along the Taconic Parkway - our Saturday route to the Catskill country. The wild flower are is an experiment by New York DOT to reintroduce native wild flowers to the meadows along the Taconic. Yellow cone flowers show their wears in the image. The blue haze of the Catskills is seen only faintly through the young trees. On clear days, the Catskills form the horizon. In the winter they wear a mantle of snow.

The second image was taken on the escarpment. The image looks southward from Sunset Rock toward Kaaterskill High Peak. Although the forest is predominately hardwoods, balsam fir and spruce dot the summit ridge . High Peak was a popular destination of  many Catskill visitors in the 1800s and early 1900s. It was once thought to be the highest peak in the Catskills. In fact, it ranks as #22, but still one in the 3500-foot club. 
The third image is in the same direction, but with more foreground foliage. These peaks receive a goodly amount of moisture and often reflect it in the curls of mist that spiral upward. The eastern Catskills remind me of the southern Blue Ridge country, home for the first 23 years of my life.

The last image shows Monica sitting on Sunset Rock. The 3,440-foot summit of Roundtop is seen in the distance. Place names like Sunset Rock, Inspiration Point, and Artist's Rock speak for themselves. This is gorgeous country.

Saturday evening, we attended a concert put on my Russian pianist Vladimir Pleshakov and his wife Elena Wenther. Afterwards we toured the piano museum and Vladimir allowed Monica to play several of the historic pianos including an 1826 Tischner built for Russian Royalty. Vladimir played a Beethoven several Beethoven selections on it for us. 
As I sat in the concert hall, listened to the melodious notes from the works of Brahms, Arensky, and Stravinski, my eyes kept scanning two large murals on the wall showing scenes from the Catskills in the 1800s. One scene showed the Laural Hotel and Kaaterskill Falls. The second was of an agrarian scene taken in the direction of Mink Hallow. Here was a taste of culture and history within a region of great scenic beauty. It all seemed appropriate. Great music enjoyed in a great place. The little Catskill towns may never reclaim their former glory, but the arts are not yet dead. 
Back at the Hunter House, Monica and I enjoyed the friendly feeling that permeated our surroundings. Everyone there seemed laid back. Everybody greeted us and we them. Perhaps it was the dreamy Catskills working their summer magic. They did it successfully on old Rip Van Winkle and it lasted for 20 years.    

BBob

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Continued at:

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