Weekend forays   Robert Leverett
  Jun 04, 2007 06:38 PDT 

ENTS,

SATURDAY

Broad Brook

    On Saturday, Gary Beluzo and I went searching for tuliptrees along
Broad Brook, a small stream that runs behind my wife Monica's house in
Florence, MA. Locating tuliptrees is part of the study Gary intends to
pursue on his sabbatical. I will be assisting him document and study the
natural range of Liriodendron in Massachusetts. It is an exciting
proposition for me that the favored tree of my childhood, spent in the
southern Appalachians, reaches its natural northeastern limit between 5
and 7 miles from where I currently live. That is somewhere between way
cool and way, way cool.

     Broad Brook starts at just under a mile north of Monica's house and
cuts a ravine for its first mile before flowing into Fitzgerald Lake, a
conservation area that is a couple of tenths of a mile east of Monica’s
house. The Broad Brook Coalition, a conservation group, oversees the
municipal property. Monica was a past president of the Coalition and is
one the board.

     The Broad Brook corridor supports a mature forest along part of its
path. The elevation drop of Broad Brook from source to terminus is only
about 250 feet. The overall topographical relief along the Broad Brook
corridor is about 400 feet, so it this a complex of hills as opposed to
mountains. The number of tree species that can be found along the 4-mile
corridor probably numbers around 30. It may be slightly more. We shall
see. The meandering stream and its associated corridor just happen to be
one of the tuliptree corridors that Gary and I will be studying. That is
way, way cool.

      Fighting gnats, mosquitoes, pollen, high humidity, ticks, and a
stubborn cold, I wasn’t in prime shape, but nothing could deter either
of us from finding our quarry. One old tulip we stumbled onto measures
7.7 feet in circumference and is 116.5 feet tall. It may be the
patriarch-matriarch of the group in the upper reaches of Broad Brook.
For most of the stands Gary has located and measured near the
northeastern range limit of Liriodendron, the old tulip is about as
large and tall as they get. We see lots that are from 6.0 to 7.5 feet in
girth. Looking at these slender trees, it is hard to accept that the
behemoths of the southern Appalachian coves are the identical species.
It is true that isolated tuliptrees in western Massachusetts growing in
deep, well-watered soils can grow larger. We do see a very few heights
between 130 and 135 feet and one at 140. Girths of the biggest of these
trees (not street trees) are between 11 and 12 feet, or about half the
maximum in the South. In fact, these northeastern tulips reach 75
percent of the height maximum for the species and 50 percent of the
girth maximum.

     By contrast, street tuliptrees in western Massachusetts can reach
between 14 and 16 feet in girth, although most are less. More typically,
a big one measures around 12 feet in girth. However, Gary and I measured
a huge tuliptree in Florence on a street at 122.6 feet in height and
16.4 feet around. Its maximum crown spread is 94 feet. Its owner is very
proud of her tree. A second street tree in Florence is 14.0 feet around
and 117.3 feet tall, which just about matches one in Sheffield, MA.
There are other street trees in various western Mass towns that are in
the 12-14 foot girth class, but usually more on the order of 12. The
height range for the big street tulips is generally 110 to 120 feet.
Only rarely do they go above 120. It requires deep soils in ravines to
produce the extra 15 feet.

    All in all, we were happy with the scattering of tulip trees that we
discovered along the Broad Brook corridor on Saturday and we still have
close to a half mile left to explore to the head of the brook and at
least a mile of the lower part of the drainage. As previously mentioned,
the upper reaches of Broad Brook are between 5 and 7 miles from the
northeastern-most stand of tuliptrees that we known of. So, the corridor
is scientifically important to us. We need to piece together the history
of the Broad brook corridor. Past logging at points along the corridor
has eliminated many large oaks and pines. Stumps remaining are well
along in decay, but enough remains to suggest a high density of trees
2.5 to 3.5 feet in diameter. That’s large enough to create a handsome
forest. But despite the logging, there are plenty of impressive trees
left. There is no evidence of the all too typical modern-day
Massachusetts high grade. Some of the standing trees appear to be
between 150 and 200 years old and that range will eventually be
verified. The mere existence of the pines and tulip trees speak to the
likelihood of open fields and wood lots at in the past.

    What is neat for me is that Broad Brook is literally in my back yard
and it is exciting to be able to stroll out the back door and into a
forest that has a very respectable scattering of stately trees with
opportunity for more discoveries. By quick calculations, the forested
area following the brook northward from Monica's house to where the land
opens up covers about 750 acres. I’ve come to realize that a lot of
forest surprises can be packed into no more and a few hundred acres.
Three and a half years ago I was in deep depression from the loss of my
wife Jani. Then I would have never imagined that I would eventually be
at the doorstep of retirement and living among an abundance of quite
respectable trees. But what am I calling respectable? Well, so far, I've
measured 29 trees along Broad Brook that exceed 115 feet in height, two
of which exceed 130 - white pines of course. The composition of the 29
trees is as follows:

     17 white pines
       6 tuliptrees
       2 hemlocks
       1 pignut hickory

    There are many more pines above 115, but there may not be any more
tuliptrees. I think there will be a few more hemlocks and maybe one or
two trees of other species such as sugar maple or another hickory. In
terms of 120s, we have the pines and the tuliptrees, and so far, no
prospect of adding a third species.

    How about girth? The largest single-stem trees I've measured along
Broad Brook include a white pine at 11.3 feet in circumference and a
tuliptree at 11.2. Today, Gary and I found a huge double-stem pine that
measures 14.2 feet around and is 133.2 feet tall. It was tempting to
call it one tree, but it shows the telltale seam. It splits at above 10
feet, so there is no measuring the largest single trunk. This form of
tree begs for a classification and measurement methodology.

Mill River

    Early on Saturday, Gary and I followed a path down to the Mill
River. The path cut through some outstanding trees. Gary and I measured
a northern red oak at 9.3 feet in girth and 120.1 feet in height. That
is a height record for an oak of any species in the Connecticut River
Valley region. So the northern red joins the white pine, tuliptree,
sycamore, white ash, pignut hickory, hemlock, red pine, and cottonwood
as species that have been documented in the Valley to 120 feet in height
or more. Only the white pine, tuliptree, and sycamore have so far been
documented to over 130 in the Valley region and only white pine and
tuliptree reach to 140. It turns out that the super oak is adjacent to
the estate of a wealthy friend of Monica’s who always asks how I am
doing. So getting access to the property to measure some super trees
will not be a problem.

SUNDAY

Dunbar Brook-MSF

    On Sunday, Monica and I visited an old-growth stand in MSF, the
sister to MTSF. The purpose was to continue Phase-I of Tsuga
Search-Massachusetts and identify individual hemlocks and/or clusters
worthy of treating. The elevation change to reach the spot is slightly
over 600 feet, so the climb is not long, but it is off trail and people
very rarely see the place. The coordinates of the site are 42.70 degrees
latitude and 72.96 degrees longitude. The altitude of the center of the
site is approximately 1,575 feet above sea level. The hemlocks were
photographed in 1994 in the making of the television documentary “The
Web of Life” by then existing WQED National public TV in Pittsburgh. The
station no longer exists. But the trees were documented for posterity.
There are only four hemlocks at the chosen location and there were
chosen for heritage tree status (pending) and designated as
H1-MSF-DBB-HM, H2-MSF-DBB-HM, H3-MSF-DBB-HM, and H4-MSF-DBB-HM. Their
measurements and age ranges follow.

   Hemlock    Hgt     Girth   Age

    H1            118.4    9.7     250+
    H2            106.3   10.7    250+
    H3            103.7   11.3    250+
    H4            102.3     6.7    250+


    This trip by Monica and me signals the start of identification and
nomination of Massachusetts Heritage Hemlocks. Although there has been
no official criteria for the designation, great age, size/height,
aesthetic appeal, location in an old-growth stand, or association with
historic or cultural events seem reasonable criteria to consider. The
Dunbar trees have sufficient age, 3 have the size/height, 3 have
considerable aesthetical appeal, and all are located in an old-growth
area.

THE BIG CHALLENGE

    Locating heritage hemlocks will be the easy part of the Tsuga
Search-Massachusetts mission. There are ways to make the process
efficient without being expensive in terms of costs to those of us who
will identify most of the trees and we’ll have to do extra planning,
given the high price of gasoline. But the real challenge is to going to
be to get state officials solidly behind the program and to accept our
recommendations for treatment. The state officials will be supportive in
a general kind of way, but indecisive about what should be actually
saved and what should be let go.

Bob


Robert T. Leverett
Cofounder, Eastern Native Tree Society