Coring trees   Neil Pederson
  Sep 22, 2006 11:27 PDT 

A Mora? Is that placed under the Haglof name? Blue handle?

Anyhow, the best way to make rings stand out is to mount them with the
fibers vertical/rings vertical, as the core was when it was in the tree
[though a 180 flip works]. Halfway down this page is a good image on
properly and improperly mounted core samples:

This is the first common problem of seeing rings.

Next, you will need to sand, sand and sand. The amount of sanding depends on
the species and wood type you are working with. If it is a conifer, oak or
hickory [ring porous species], you should start with ~ 80 or 120 grit paper
and work your way to progressively finer paper; to ~ 320-600, depending on
the number of rings/cm. For diffuse porous species, Liriodendron, Magnolia,
etc., you will sometime have to work your way to 2000-4000 grit paper. Just
depends on how well it is mounted, ring definition of the tree you

I've never used a stain. When in Argentina for a tree ring field week we
colored the sapwood of Nothofagus with a dark marker and rubbed in white
chalk to make the ring boundaries clearer. The only I genus that I have
worked with in the east where this might be necessary would be Nyssa.

BTW - congrats Bob! Nice job. Your hard work has paid off.

Hope this helps,

On 9/21/06, Scott Wade wrote:
Neil, ENTS

I have received my new Mora 20" coring tool from Forestry suppliers. I
have cored two dead trees to about 18". Is there an easy way to make the
rings stand out? I have a magnifying glass, but no microscope. Would stain